A Tale Of Shopping, Keas and Caves

Area: Kepler Track

Map: NZMS 260 - C43 (Manapouri), C42 (Mount Irene) or Parkmap 335-09 (Kepler)
OTMC Reference Material:
Guide Book etc: Moirs Guide - Southern Section
Originally Published: OTMC Bulletin 588, July, 1999
Date: June 26/27, 1999
Notes: Suitable all year round, although be wary of weather changes and snow conditions between Luxmore and Irisburn huts.

 

A Tale Of Shopping, Keas and Caves by Andrew MacKay

Well another trip is at end and it is time to write the trip report. So it was on a cold winter's evening five of us headed south in search of fresh air, tall peaks and maybe a little good food. The drive south was uneventful in the rattley red van through to Gore. Where a party member decided that this was a good time to purchase some nice wooly gloves and maybe a pair of overtrou since we were heading up a mountain and it might be just a little chilly. Fortunately a department store in the metropolis of Gore was open and an expedition of epic proportions was engaged to purchase the above items. Soon our party now fully attired in new gloves, trou and the odd pair of new socks, continued on our way to the camping ground at Te Anau, where we spent a comfortable night.

Bright and early... well it was actually still dark.... we set off for the control gates and the start of the Kepler track. The track, like any of the 'Great Walks', is a tramper's motorway - a full metre wide, evenly graded and wonderful to walk on. While the others enjoyed the pleasant walk I headed off with the intention of stopping often along the way to take photographs. A few opportunities presented themselves, though it was still a little too dark to give a good exposure. Again I had left my tripod in the vehicle considering it to be to heavy to carry, never again though!

At Brod Bay some beautiful scenery opened up and I finally got a chance to take a couple of great images. A friendly tit decided to do a little posing, which required a couple more frames. The party then regrouped and regrouped for the long grunt up to Luxmore hut. As with most steep climbs, this one consisted of long periods of placing one foot in front of the other, and short spells of enjoying the bush, bird calls and waiting for the heart rate to come down. Mt Luxmore hut, for those who haven't seen it lately, has grown again. A fire during the 1998 tourist season badly damaged the hut, and I would not like to guess how many bunks the place now has. Suffice to say that there was plenty of room for our small party. While we were settling in, four very friendly kea paid the hut a visit Their antics provided the party with several minutes of amusement, allowing me to capture some classic kea photos and Fee to have a long involved chat with one of the young chaps.

The group then decided to make the requisite visit to the limestone caves 10 min from the hut, and so with torches in hand we set off. The caves are set into a sheet of limestone, which extends throughout this part of the south and is of the same age as the limestone of the Oamaru and Waitomo districts, around 25 to 30 million years old. Caving is a pastime suited to those of trogulitic tendencies and preferably with fresh batteries in their torch. The caves give easy access to the beautiful underworld of stalactites, stalagmites, crystal pools and flow sheets. Sadly, as with all similar caves, human impact is apparent throughout, with brown stains on most of the surfaces where greasy hands have been, and evidence of recently broken stalagmites.

It was then time for the advertised purpose of the trip - cooking! This consisted of a fine vegetable chicken soup slowly simmered over the potbelly stove, followed by stir-fried vegetables, mince and a huge helping of rice, with a glass or two of an imported wine, finished by steamed pudding and custard. No one was hungry that night including the two OUTC members who were also spending the night. Eventually people started to head to bed, apart from Wilbert who, noting that there was a full moon and that it was to early to go to sleep, headed out for a moonlight stroll. I believe his comments were that the moon was as large as a dinner plate and that you could see forever. I was sound asleep by that stage so missed the return of our night time wanderer. The night, whilst peaceful, was interrupted in the early hours of the morning by the desperate scrabble of a small mouse attempting to steal the contents of a packet of double chocolate chip biscuits.

Bright and early the next morning ... still very dark, it was up to a hearty breakfast and grab some photos of the sunrise over lake Te Anau before the party headed in separate directions again. My intentions were to find an important fossil locality on the south side of Low peak, while the rest headed up to the top of Mt Luxmore. Well the best laid plans don't always work and after a hour and a half sliding around in three inches of snow and ice following compass bearings that didn't seem correct, I gave up and decided to climb to the top of Low peak. A nice little scramble leads to the top where I arrived just as the rest of the party topped out on Mt Luxmore. From there it was back to the hut, boil the billy for the rest and sit down for a leisurely lunch before we all headed back down the hill to the vehicle.

Back in town we changed, signed out and fuelled up another group of tired but happy trampers headed back to Dunedin.

A vote of think must be give to Jenny Lowe, who did a sterling job of organising this trip, only to not be able to come.

NOTES:

1) Petzi batteries last for ages, then fail just when you need them the most.

2) The low peak of Mt Luxmore is magnetic, not a good place for running compass bearings.

3) Always take twice as much film as you think you will need!

Andrew Mac for Fee, Chris, Wilbert and Jonette

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